New brew for Atascadero

Creig P. Sherburne/Atascadero News • Brian Vogel and Kendall Bryson, owners of beer pub Molly Pitcher, stand in front of the construction zone that is their building. The pair plan to open in early May.

ATASCADERO — Craft brew fanatic Kendall Bryson aims to put Atascadero back on the map not based its proximity to the wine-rich regions of Paso Robles and Templeton, but because, as he puts it, “Atascadero is about to become Beer Country.”

Bryson, 30, is about to open Atascadero’s first microbrewery dedicated entirely to American craft brew at 6760 El Camino Real. He’s calling it Molly Pitcher Brewing Company, in honor of the women who, according to legend, bravely hauled buckets of water — and perhaps something a bit stronger — to the Continental Soldiers fighting on the front lines during the American Revolution.

Located in downtown Atascadero, just across El Camino Real from Sunken Gardens and soon-to-be-refurbished historic City Administration Building, Bryson’s brewery is situated at the heart of the town’s up-and-coming Colony district, and that’s no coincidence — Bryson is adamant in his belief that his lifelong hometown is finally going to make a name for itself as place folks can go to experience both great beer and a sense of community rooted in old-time American ideals.

“I grew up here and I always kind of loved it here,” Bryson said. “But it was always missing what I’m trying to do.”

Bryson has been brewing beer for about five years, and in that relatively short amount of time he has made some huge strides. After having gotten started back in 2007 with a $150 homebrew kit and a first batch that he recalled with a sour face, was “weird, cloudy and yeasty,” he’s currently turning out IPAs and session stouts that easily rival offerings from other more well known craft breweries. Molly Pitcher will feature at least three of his signature beers on tap, along with about 12 of those other American breweries Bryson admires. He said he’ll likely always have favorites such as Stone, Lagunitas, Deschutes, Heretic and Dogfishhead on tap.

That, he said, will give his customers a huge variety of stouts, India pale ales, lagers and maybe even some cider.

“I don’t really know why cider hasn’t caught on in [the United States],” he said. “It’s pretty big in Europe.

Of course, Bryson isn’t the first beer enthusiast to set up shop in North County, but he isn’t so much interested in competing with other similar venues as much as he’s intent on furthering a sense of community between people who enjoy high-quality, innovative beer. He is quick to point out that “there’s this whole new beer culture starting to give the wine country something to think about; now that more and more beer places are showing up there are more and more places to go try new microbrews.”

And it’s not just the connoisseurs Bryson is interested in; he wants to provide a place for both those who have a taste for his craft and those who share his enthusiasm and skill. His goal is, once again, rooted in his desire to see the community grow.

“I really want to pull in other homebrewers as well as beer lovers in general — those people who want to see the special kegs that come out, that are hard to find in a bottle,” Bryson said. “And I kind of want to keep it a quieter, more mature place.”

Bryson also plans to get involved with city events such as Hot El Camino Cruise Nite — for which he has prime real estate — and hopes to organize a beer festival.

“Of course,” he said with a grin, “it’ll be called ‘Beer Country.’”

Bryson said he hopes to open his doors by the beginning of May; he’s been hard at work renovating the building — formerly an old office complex — and designing a new interior complete with a brewing room and a barroom that will boast Old Americana-style décor, including a long, concrete shuffleboard table.

“We think it’s the first ever concrete shuffleboard table,” Bryson said. “I couldn’t find another one when looking online.”

He said there may also be a dart board or a pool table, but it’s hard to plan such things when the majority of the interior is covered with wallboard and other construction materials.

But in point of fact, much of the new space and its custom furnishings has been built by young, local craftsmen who have pitched in to help Bryson realize his visions. For this, he is beyond grateful.

“I’m so lucky to have surrounded myself with talented people who want to see this happen and then come in and help make it happen,” Bryson said. “I wouldn’t be able to do it without the good crowd around me.”